RODI

BEST GASTONIA RESTAURANT: Rodi Med-American Grill

"The Mediterranean influences of Rodi -- staples include pizza, paella, falafel and couscous -- combined with a laid-back waitstaff and unique setting (an interesting renovation; you have to see it to understand) -- make this a winner in Gastonia. . .and probably a future contender for a "best" award in other categories."
*creative loafing, 2000

-"...delightful and inviting...", combining "Mediterranean Flavor" and "Southern Charm" *Amy Rogers, Charlotte Observer

"Sit inside at a funky table or on the snug patio. Either way, leave full and happy.
The Skinny
"Fine dining" aren't the first words that come to mind when you think about Gastonia. But in the land of chain restaurants with hour-long waits, there is buried a bit of tasty treasure. Housed in part of a former high school gym, Rodi brings eclectic dishes with fresh, original ingredients to a town that's known for its fried fish.
The Food
Vegetarians will be in (soy) hog heaven here, at one of the few places in town where a meatless meal does not have to consist only of "sides." The Med Spread platter makes a fine meal for one or appetizer for two, and the meat-free soups and pastas could teach even the most adament beef lover a thing or two about flavor. Diners of all types must steel themselves against temptation to fill up on the bread, served with a made-to-order dipping concoction of olive oil, balsamic vinaigrette and freshly grated cheese.

If you're a carnivore, don't pass up the beef tagine. The meat is so tender that your knife will never get dirty, and it's served with Rodi's signature mashed potatoes. Even if your entree is listed with rice, ask for those potatoes instead. Save room for the chocolate pot at dessert time, and you'll realize there's more to Gaston County than adult fast food. "
*Anne Sclater

Mediterranean fare from Moroccan-spiced salmon to duck with pomegranate glaze comes in a lovingly rendered renovation of a high school gym. This eclectic setting suits the eclectic food, but the relaxed feel is really noteworthy. Kids are welcome, and when's the last time you had garlic shrimp over polenta where you could also get a grilled cheese?

At Rodi, the meals, and attitude, are Mediterranean

There's more to Rodi's Mediterranean feeling than the food.

There's an ease, a lusty but relaxed appreciation of comfort and comfort foods that's distinctly un-American.

Wait, wait. You know what I mean. This country isn't exactly famous for valuing good food and its unmitigated enjoyment over the cheap and quick.

Here are the kinds of touches Rodi has: candles burning in pots on the terrace, which is dotted with pots of verbena and other flowers. Birds (finches, a cockatiel) in cages, at children's-eye level. Servers who, rather than glaring at children, actually encourage them: We overheard one pointing out how a particular bird -- named Farley, as it happens -- likes to have his neck rubbed. A carved wooden chess set (or a bottle of plastic bugs, depending on which looks more fun) that you can play with while you await your pan-seared garlic shrimp over polenta.

Rodi is Greek for pomegranate, a fruit whose tough skin encloses a multitude of red seeds surrounded by juicy pulp. It figures in the cuisines of countries from Spain to Lebanon, ancient Egyptians revered it as a symbol of love and fertility (all those seeds), and both Greek mythology and Christian lore mention it.

Owners Traci Smith and Carla Pope knew they wanted to do Mediterranean food in this Gastonia restaurant -- ``that's pretty much how Traci and I cook,'' says Pope.

But the pomegranate analogy works another way as well: What could be more fertile than the imagination of people turning a boys' locker room into this melange of ocher and deep blue, its walls painted to look ancient over a structure that almost is?

Rodi is in a building called the Gem of Ashley. It's a renovation of a high school gymnasium, and houses specialty shops from an interior design consignment store to a hair salon. The high school itself sat a bit away. It's now the Ashley Arms, upscale apartments.

Smith did structural design for the restaurant and she and Pope (and friends) did the painting and decorating themselves.

There's a grilled pizza and a risotto of the day. Other starters include Med spreads (caponata, olive tapenade and garlic-lemon hummus, for instance) with grilled bread and dipping vegetables; bruschetta; vegetable fritters; and Moroccan-spiced calamari.

There's panzanella, an Italian salad of bread (with romaine and chickpeas here), and ``little pies'' (savory pastries with beef, chicken or spinach with pine nuts and feta).

Lunch brings sandwiches (grilled portobello, falafel, turkey with Havarti and peppered bacon on ciabatta, even ``our famous meatloaf''), while dinner expands the eclectic influence: Look for terrific Moroccan-spice-rubbed salmon over couscous and duck grilled with pomegranate glaze and roasted pears. A paella special was studded with good mussels, fine sausage and itty-bitty shrimp, a pity.

Servers move among tables in white T-shirts, jeans and a languid pace. Crusty ciabatta with olive oil and balsamic vinegar (or butter if you request it) arrives almost immediately, but little else is so speedy.

Desserts certainly aren't, which suited us fine. Chocolate espresso torte is the fudgy richness you'd expect, while tiramisu comes in a fluted glass, a more puddinglike confection than the traditional version. There's nearly always a cheesecake, and cinnamon-raisin bread pudding with whiskey sauce has proved popular.

Pope says they're considering building an aviary, so birds at home could come to work; there's a dozen or so, and a new generation on the way.

Must be the pomegranates. They appear to have brought Rodi fortune everywhere else.
*Helen Schwab, The Charlotte Observer